Poll

Motocikla ieziemošana un apkope?

Eļļa, akumulators, bremzes, degvielas sistēma, vārstu atstarpes, dakša, gultņi, sveces, filtri.
10 (22.2%)
Eļļa, filtri, akumulators, pilna bāka
14 (31.1%)
Rudenī izjaucu, pa ziemu nokrāsoju, pavasarī salieku
6 (13.3%)
Pavasarī izrakšu no kupenas
15 (33.3%)

Total Members Voted: 45

Author Topic: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.  (Read 669957 times)

Offline Guncha

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1095 on: September 01, 2012, 17:20:40 »
Tas tak Ērika/Enrikes kaplis
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Offline Uvis

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1096 on: September 01, 2012, 17:22:30 »
tas pohuj galvenais ir zināt cik liels Sūds ir tas aprīļa joks
Starptautiskie autokravu pārvadājumi

Offline mb

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1097 on: September 01, 2012, 18:07:30 »
tas pohuj galvenais ir zināt cik liels Sūds ir tas aprīļa joks

kaplis ka modelis ir labs man domat. tikai ar detalam varetu but chakars salidzinajuma ar japaniem. nu tipa cik atri un ko var dabut ja kadreiz vajag. viss parejais zaibis. veras noteikti labi.

Offline osiic

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1098 on: September 02, 2012, 02:15:25 »
Osīs, par cik tu labi orientējies mototehnikā, tad jautājums tev.


Cik liels sūds ir tas te  [size=78%]http://www.ss.lv/msg/lv/transport/moto-transport/motorcycles/aprilia/iinko.html[/size]      Tīri no tehniskā viedokļa

Nopakots tas mocis ir ahuuna - daksha, diski, bremzes utt. Motors arii veraas ok! Parasti problemu ar sho moci nav, ja vien pats vinju nesachakaree! Un rezerves daljas ir daargas ahuuna :aha:

Offline Gacho

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1099 on: September 07, 2012, 14:10:41 »
Sāku rakāties pa netu meklējot risinājumus aizmugures dakšas jautājumam.

Izskatās ka 900rr dakša der ļoti labi.
Viss kas ir vajadzīgs, par vienu collu jāsaīsina labā pusē lai ietu iekšā rāmī.

Kā dabūšu atbildi no viena čaļa kas to smuki ir izdarījis, ar visiem paskaidrojumiem un atstāstiem, tā meklēšu pašu dakšu. Cik skatos, ēbrajā maksā 30-40 poundi. Pieksaitam klāt vēl amortizatoru un moš arī zobratu turētāju un pakaļējā kronšteina supportu varbūt.


Ja jums velta pārāk daudz uzmanības, tad vainu jūs grib appist vai izpist!

Offline Māšele

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1100 on: September 09, 2012, 21:46:43 »
Labvakar!
Kā pareizi sagatavot motociklu ziemai?
Nu visas tehniskās, ne tehniskās štelles blondīnei saprotamā valodā. Ja neskaita pilnas bākas pieliešanu un akumulatora atvienošanu.
Paldies!

Offline RGX

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1101 on: September 09, 2012, 21:56:14 »
Aizlīmē visus ieplūdes izplūdes caurumus... uzpumpē riepas...nomazgā...ievasko... kautkaadas metaala daljas nopuut ar kautkaadiem kopshanas liidzekljiem.. saeljljo kjeedi un gaidi pavasari...ceriibaa ka pieleks :D

Es parasti uz ziemu savus motociklus izjaucu pārjaucu un tā kautkā  - un pavasarī kad visi jau brauc..pēdējā vakarā steigā lieku kopā :DD
Riepas, bremzes, serviss, drošas braukšanas apmācības un viss pārējais.

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Offline Māšele

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1102 on: September 09, 2012, 21:59:31 »
spļe  :aiwa:
Skaidrs, vispirms nolikšu un tad jau uz oktobri būs RTFM  :muri:

P.S> rgx, kāds alkohols Tev garšo?  :muri: Vai labāk Majskij čaj?

Offline RGX

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1103 on: September 09, 2012, 22:03:02 »
Tagad majskij čai :sportists:

Bet man visi dotie no sākuma jāatrod :)
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Offline Māšele

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1104 on: September 09, 2012, 22:08:23 »
proteīna kokteilītis?  :shura:

Offline RGX

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1105 on: September 09, 2012, 22:08:56 »
Nee..es neesmu kačoks... man proteīnu nevajag :) Es gribu būt smuks stiprs un veikls :d Tākā smuks jau esmu - atliek tikai divas lietas kuras esmu nepamatoti pametis novārtā :D
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Offline Naits

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1106 on: September 11, 2012, 21:31:07 »
Ir kādam bijusi saskarsme ar Yamaha trx850? Kas, ko, kā?

Offline RGX

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1107 on: September 11, 2012, 22:41:15 »
Pēcim tāds bija :)
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Offline Gacho

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1108 on: September 12, 2012, 19:34:30 »
Nevēlos sapriecāties pa agru, bet liekas ka ir kāds risinājums manām problēmām ar jaudas zudumiem pie augstajiem apgriezieniem.
Izraku amerikāņu forumā:
"The main cause of issues when the fairings are removed is the float chambers seeing a slightly lower pressure than the airbox sees when moving at speeds above 45mph or so.
 The ZX series of Kawasaki sportsbikes suffer from this problem very acutely.
 What you really need to do rather than restricting the amount of air entering the airbox, is to enable the float chamers to see the same pressure reference as the airbox.
 The easiest way to accomplish this is to find the two Tee pieces between carbs 1&2 and carbs 3&4 which are the float chamber vents, on some banks of carbs on the Hondas it is one large Tee piece between the 2&3 carbs as all 4 carbs are linked across the top.
 Once you have determined the float chamber vents, attatch a short length of rubber hose to the Tee piece, and then run it into the airbox through a hole drilled in the underside just large enough to pass the hose through tightly.
 Face the open end of the hose towards the front of the bike under the airfilter, if needs be slash cut the hose at 45 degrees and face the cut upwards and forwards.
 By doing this the float chamber vent will be fed by the air entering the airbox which then ensures that the pressure in the float chambers is equalised with the airbox pressure, once this is achieved the air passing through the venturi will suffer a slight pressure drop, as this happens the air pressure in the float chamber becomes slightly higher than that in the venturi directly above the needle jet/jet needle, and this higher pressure in the bowl then forces the fuel up the needle jet/emulsion tube and introduces it to the airflow through the venturi where it is then atomised and carried into the cylinder.
 I've had to sort out quite a few "Ramair" issues on sportsbikes that have had the fairings removed over the years, in the past the issues have been difficult to detect as they don't generally manifest when I have the bikes on my dyno, although I now have a dedicated ducted fan which I use to blow air into the airbox intakes  in an effort to replicate the problem as it occurs on the road rather than me going out and testing the bike on the road myself which isn't always a practicable option when it is pissing down with rain, or during the summer when the local roads are crowded with tourists heading towards the coast. "
Ja jums velta pārāk daudz uzmanības, tad vainu jūs grib appist vai izpist!

Offline Gacho

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Re: Moto remonta un uzbūves pamatprincipi.
« Reply #1109 on: September 12, 2012, 19:42:05 »
Fuck YEAH!
Čalim arī ar F2 šāda problēma, un šitam jokam vajadzētu to izlabot  :yahoo:
"Mr. Dump...I have some questions...
 
 By moving the vent lines from free hanging willy nilly, into the airbox, you are now subjecting the vents to negative pressure....correct? and, if so, is it enough of a pressure differential to require a step in jetting? will this effect needle clip placement?
 
 also, is there an 'ideal' placement of said vent lines into the airbox? (close to bellmouths, far, somewhere in between???)
 
 
 for reference...CBR F2, stock airbox (with snorkels), drop in UNI filter, Dynojet kit, stock pilots, clips are 2nd notch from the top, no bodywork, Yosh big tube/short header, custom muffler. (similar ram air effect problem)"

Atbilde
"No it will not need rejetting unless you are rejetting for a new exhaust etc. All you are doing is giving the float chambers the same pressure that is in the airbox, this allows the carb to work correctly when the pressure in the airbox rises as road speed increases.
 When you disconnect all the ramair you have a situation where the pressure in the float chamber is lower than the pressure in the airbox. By equalising the pressure you ensure that when the pressure drops in the venturi the float bowl is of a higher pressure which is what pushes the fuel into the venturi.
 It works in the same manner that a pitot tube works on a blow through turbo with carbs. "
Ja jums velta pārāk daudz uzmanības, tad vainu jūs grib appist vai izpist!